Exaltation of the senses

Many love it, many hate it, but everyone will agree that it gives you bad breath! And of course, we’re talking about Champagne, not garlic!

Champagne was not immediately appreciated by its contemporaries; it only became truly popular during the 17th century, and it has never left the party since. In 1584, Pierre Gosset was already producing still wines from noble grape varieties such as Pinot Noir an

d Chardonnay. Later, in 1668, Champagne was perfected by the Benedictine monk Dom Pérignon near Épernay, who created the méthode champenoise—the traditional process of producing sparkling wine.

The Oyster Lunch (1735) by Jean-François de Troy, exhibited at the Château de Chantilly, is—despite its title—a tribute to Champagne. It marks the first appearance of Champagne in art history. The painting was a royal commission intended to decorate the winter dining room of Louis XV’s private apartments at Versailles. This intimate room, mainly used after hunting parties, hosted only a few chosen companions. The work has a rich iconography, offering precious insight into tableware and dining customs during the first third of the 18th century.

Jean Francois de Troye (1679- 1752), The Oyster Lunch, 1735

Oysters, a delicacy reserved for the elite, were served alongside bread, garlic, butter, salt, and pepper, all presented simultaneously on the table, illustrating the essence of service à la française. This new organization of the meal reflected a certain informality: guests freely composed their own menus, and bottles of Champagne were placed within reach. The wine cooler in the foreground highlights the beverage’s importance. At that time, Champagne was not yet drunk from flutes or coupes but from conical glasses.

This painting is a true ode to French savoir-vivre. It perfectly captures the unstoppable banquet spirit and the conviviality of family and friends gathered around the table—a symphony of laughter, debate, and animated gestures for everyone’s delight. Champagne is the perfect companion to ignite any party, awakening the senses and tuning everyone to the energy of the room.

In July 2010, a cargo of Veuve Clicquot Champagne destined for the Tsar of Russia in the 1780s was discovered in the Baltic Sea. This remarkable find bears witness to Champagne’s international prestige as early as the 18th century.

The 19th century only strengthened this aura. Tsar Alexander II of Russia, an avid admirer of Champagne, ordered around 60% of Louis Roederer’s production each year. In 1876, he commissioned Roederer to create a special Baccarat crystal bottle with a flat bottom to prevent any hidden explosives or poison—thus was born the famous Cristal de Roederer, the first cuvée de prestige.

During the 20th century, Régine—the celebrated singer and icon of Parisian nightlife—brought Champagne back to its rightful place in her many nightclubs, restoring its original role: a drink of joy, celebration, and exuberance.

Today, Champagne remains a unique bridge between wine and spirit, symbolizing both sophistication and festivity.

The history of Champagne answers the ultimate question: Is Champagne a luxury good?The answer is, undeniably, yes. It stands as a living embodiment of French heritage, savoir-vivre, and art de vivre.